Kensington TB800 EQ Trackball Review

I don’t usually get early access to new phones or laptops, but every so often something more niche shows up instead. In this case, it’s a pre-release trackball from Kensington, the new TB800 EQ.

I first saw it at a local trade show a few weeks ago, and Kensington later sent one over for me to try out. The TB800 is available for preorder through Kensington directly and on Amazon (compensated affiliate link). If you buy it through Amazon, you can choose between different ball colors; the unit I’ve been using has a burgundy ball, though a silver option is also available.

One of the first things I noticed is how securely the ball is held in place. It snaps into the housing with enough resistance that it won’t fall out even if you flip the device upside down. That may sound minor, but anyone who has used older trackballs knows how easy it is for the ball to pop loose when moving the unit from one office to another.

Like other Kensington trackballs, there’s a large central scroll wheel, and this one has a solid feel with a bit of weight to it. By default, it spins freely and supports accelerated scrolling. Pressing a mechanical button on the top switches it into a click-by-click mode with an actual mechanical detent so you can physically feel each step as you scroll line by line. In addition to that main wheel, there are two more scroll wheels built into the device on the left and right hand side. One handles horizontal scrolling, while another can be used for zooming, depending on the application. In a spreadsheet, for example, I was able to scroll vertically, move left and right across columns, and zoom in and out without touching the keyboard.

Those extra wheels are positioned far enough away from the main buttons that they don’t get triggered accidentally. After using the trackball over several days, I didn’t find myself activating them unintentionally during normal use. They also have a balanced resistance, so they don’t feel loose, but they aren’t stiff either. If you decide you don’t want to use one or more of the scroll wheels at all, Kensington included physical switches on the bottom of the device that let you disable them individually. That avoids the need to dig into software profiles just to turn a wheel off for a particular task.

There are additional programmable buttons along the top, which by default handle actions like browser back and forward as well as volume control. These, along with the rest of the buttons and scollers, can be reassigned through Kensington’s software.

Connectivity is another area where the TB800 offers flexibility. It can connect via USB-C, through a USB-C wireless dongle, or over Bluetooth, with support for pairing to two Bluetooth devices. A button on the side lets you toggle between connection modes, making it possible to move quickly between multiple computers or tablets. Kensington estimates around four months of battery life per charge, depending on usage.

On the performance side, there’s an on-the-fly DPI switch to adjust pointer sensitivity, along with a polling rate button labeled in hertz. When connected via USB or the wireless dongle, the polling rate can be set as high as 1,000 Hz, which puts it in the same range as many gaming mice. Bluetooth connections don’t support the higher polling rates, but for wired or dongle use, the higher setting results in smoother cursor movement, especially on high-refresh-rate displays.

The configuration software, Kensington Connect, presents a visual layout of the device and allows extensive customization. Any button can be mapped to a wide range of actions, including macros, text snippets, system controls, or application-specific functions. There’s an easy mode for basic assignments and an advanced mode that allows combinations of buttons to trigger additional actions. Pointer behavior, DPI steps, polling rates, and scroll wheel functions can all be adjusted, and profiles can be set on a per-application basis so the controls behave differently in, say, a video editor versus a spreadsheet.

Trackballs have always attracted users who want a high degree of control, and that’s clearly the audience Kensington is aiming for here. I’ve been using Kensington trackballs for decades, going back to one I bought around 1989 or 1990 for an Apple IIgs that still works today. The TB800 feels like a continuation of that lineage, with large, accessible buttons that accommodate different hand sizes and grip styles. All in a very nice solid offering for Trackball fans.

Disclosure: Kensington sent the trackball to me free of charge. No other compensation was received and they have not reviewed or approved this content prior to upload.

Using Gemini AI’s “Nano Banana Pro” To Enhance Old Digital Photos

On my Gadget Picks channel, I reviewed the Kodak Charmera, a cheap keychain sized, 1.6-megapixel camera whose main appeal seems to be less about image quality and more about novelty. The camera is sold as a Labubu-style blind-box product, with different designs packaged randomly, and that scarcity has led some scalpers to charge far more than its original price. Amazon does have them in stock at the time of this writing (compensated affiliate link).

The image quality straight out of the camera is pretty bad—similar to what one might experience from an early consumer digital camera. But could Google’s new Nano Banana Pro AI model fix these images up and make them look modern? That’s what I explore in my latest video.

The Charmera produces images that are noisy, soft, and lacking in detail. On their own, they are barely usable. Using a prompt that Gemini itself helped generate, I fed in a selfie taken at my desk. The original file was a blur of digital noise, but the output that came back was far more detailed, with accurate colors and recognizable objects in the background. While there was some smoothing that made the image look slightly retouched, it largely preserved what was actually there.

That initial result led me to try a variety of other images. I photographed a small holiday decoration, a candle, my dog, and an outdoor scene, all using the Charmera. In each case, Gemini produced images that looked closer to what I might expect from a modern smartphone. Details that simply were not visible in the original files appeared in the processed versions, from textures on a figurine to fur and reflections. The framing and perspective stayed consistent, even when depth-of-field effects were introduced.

The experiment didn’t stop with new photos. I also revisited digital images from the late 1990s, taken with a Kodak DC120 camera. Many of those files I saved at very low resolutions, such as 320×240, which were the sharpest looking on my 1024×768 display at the time but look especially rough on today’s high-resolution displays. Running those decades-old images through Gemini produced mixed but often striking results. In some cases, textures and facial details appeared that made the photos feel contemporary, even though the originals had almost no usable information at the pixel level.

I also found Nano Banana to be a great compliment to another Kodak-licensed product, the Slide N Scan photo negative scanner. The scanner is inexpensive (comparatively) and can rapidly scan photo negatives and slides. But the output quality is nowhere near where it needs to be for professional use. But Gemini was able to dramatically transform a few of the images I fed through it from that scanner.

Not every result was faithful to the original. In some images, Gemini appeared to invent details when there wasn’t enough data to work with. A dog’s fur texture changed noticeably, and in one image of me running with my dog, my face was clearly not my own.

Scanned photos from books and yearbooks were generally handled well, including colorization, but there were occasional distortions in faces or text. Logos and lettering were sometimes incorrect or duplicated, especially when the source material was ambiguous or mirrored.

I also found that context mattered. When I scanned a 1994-era Polaroid of my Powerbook 180c and a Newton I had to give Gemini more specific hints about what was in the image. Gemini convincingly recreated the devices and dropped them in place. At first glance it looked amazing. But some elements—particularly text—were reconstructed inaccurately. In the below example you’ll see that Gemini replaced the “Macintosh” text on the computer with “Powerbook.”

Working through these examples made it clear that tools like Gemini are doing something very close to what modern smartphone cameras already do. Computational photography has shifted the process away from simply capturing light and toward interpreting data. In that sense, using Gemini on an extremely poor image from a toy camera is not all that different vs. what happens inside many smartphones today.

Used carefully, it can make old or low-quality images usable again. But it can very quickly cross the line from enhancement into fabrication. That balance is something worth keeping in mind as these tools become more accessible and more powerful.

The Multiview App for Apple TV and Android / Google TV Review

I came across an neat cord cutting app last night called Multiview. As its name implies, it can run four simultaneous OTA broadcasts on a single screen using an HDHomerun network tuner. The Apple TV version can also ingest streams from Tablo and Plex – including FAST streaming services.

You can check it out in my latest review.

Multiview is available on both Android and Apple platforms, including Apple TV, Google TV, Android TV, phones, and tablets. It feels a bit like the YouTube TV multiview experience but without the subscription attached.

The app costs ten dollars as a one-time purchase, and there’s a free trial that provides enough time to see whether it fits your needs. I paid for the pro version of the app myself, and the impressions here are entirely my own.

The software is still early in its life, and that shows through some bugs and quirks. The developer is active on Reddit and open to feedback, which makes the rough edges feel more manageable. Even in its early state, the app demonstrates how much innovation can come from small developers in the cord cutting space, especially when they build around open hardware like the HDHomeRun tuners the app relies on. I’ve used HDHomeRun devices for years, and their openness has always encouraged creative third-party projects like this.

Building out a layout inside the app is simple. I was able to pull in four OTA channels, switch audio between them just by moving the cursor, select one stream to go full screen with a button push and switch the layout to two-up or three-up configurations when needed. The app lets you save these layouts so you’re not rebuilding them every time you want to watch. Switching between these presets feels quick on the latest Apple TV hardware.

There’s also a program guide that resembles a traditional grid interface. It loads in all of the OTA channels your tuner sees. Occasionally it hangs, but backing out and reopening usually resolves it. Some of that may be tied to how many channels my Plex server exposes, since the app can merge OTA channels with Plex sources when Plex is connected.

The Plex integration currently works only on Apple TV. It brings in Plex’s FAST channels alongside OTA channels, which makes for some interesting multiview combinations. I did find that a local Plex server is required at the moment and that Plex accounts with two-factor authentication enabled don’t connect properly yet. After switching to an account without two-factor enabled, everything worked. Once connected, I was able to place OTA channels right next to Plex FAST channels within the same grid.

ATSC 3.0 support is present but mixed. The app will tune video from an ATSC 3.0 HDHomeRun, but I couldn’t get audio working in my market. The developer says it works where he is, so it may depend on local conditions. Encrypted ATSC 3.0 broadcasts don’t work at all, as expected, since they remain restricted by broadcasters.

I also tested the app on my iPhone, where it works similarly to the TV version, and on an Android TV device. The Android build currently supports only HDHomeRun sources and feels a bit slower on lower-end hardware. My Nvidia Shield had trouble running it, locking up during tests, while Walmart’s Onn 4K box handled it more reliably, even if it didn’t feel quite as fluid as the Apple TV.

The free demo gives you three fifteen-minute sessions along with the ability to watch a single channel without limits. For anyone trying to follow several games or events at once, the app offers an interesting option to experiment with.

You can find it on the Apple App Store here and the Google Play Store here.

Why Are People Scalping the Kodak Charmera Keychain Camera?

Blind-boxes are all the rage, something usually reserved for collectible toys like Labubus rather than electronics. But now Kodak, or rather a Kodak licensee, has jumped into the fray with a blind-box keychain camera that actually works!

Check it out in my latest Gadget Picks Channel review.

I ordered one months ago at B&H out of curiosity (compensated affiliate link), and it finally arrived this week. The first surprise was how small it was. It feels closer to a toy than a traditional camera, with a color and design you won’t know until you open the box. I happened to get the one I was hoping for, which matched the artwork right on the packaging. There are seven designs in all, with a “rare” variant being a transparent version.

The specs set expectations pretty quickly. The sensor sits at around 1.6 megapixels, and the camera comes without an SD card, though it does accept cards up to 128GB. It stores only two photos internally, so an SD card is essential if you plan to use it for more than a quick test. The back screen is tiny and offers only a few basic modes: photos, videos, and some built-in filters and frames that vary depending on which design you unboxed. Navigating the menus is simple enough, and taking a photo triggers a little mechanical-style snap sound.

The results look like something out of the late 1990s. The images immediately reminded me of my first Kodak digital camera from 1997, which also hovered around a megapixel. The look is soft, noisy, and decidedly retro, which might actually be part of the appeal for some buyers. The frames and overlays add a novelty factor, especially the one tied to the specific model I received.

Video is where things really fall apart. It records at 1440×1080 in a 4:3 aspect ratio, but the footage is jumpy and lacks any stabilization. The audio is thin and the overall experience feels more like a proof of concept than a practical feature. Still, it technically works, and some people may find charm in the limitations.

The Charmera sells for about thirty dollars at retail, although that price doesn’t mean much at the moment. Supply is tight and scalpers have pushed resale prices well beyond what the camera delivers.

I’m putting this one over on my Gadget Picks Channel, where odd little items like this tend to show up. If this is the kind of thing you like stumbling across, you’ll probably enjoy whatever shows up next—there’s always another curiosity around the corner.

Testing the New Analogue 3D FPGA Nintendo 64 Console with Flash Cartridges : SummerCart64 & Everdrive

I finally got my Analogue 3D this week, a system I ordered more than a year ago. If you haven’t encountered it yet, it’s a modern FPGA recreation of the Nintendo 64 meant to run original cartridges with clean output on current displays. These consoles tend to ship in limited runs, and once they’re gone, they’re usually gone for good, so I jumped on this one when preorders first opened.

Because much of the early coverage focused on its features, I wanted to do a bit of a deeper dive on compatibility questions, especially around flash cartridges. I brought out my older EverDrive 64 and my SummerCart64 I reviewed recently.. I also tested a BlueRetro Bluetooth adapter designed for original hardware to see how far I could push the Analogue 3D beyond standard carts.

You can see it all in action in my latest retro video!

To set a baseline, I first tried everything on an actual N64. The EverDrive behaved as expected: it loaded a homebrew title called Sticks from its SD card, saved progress correctly, and performed normally across a few commercial games. The SummerCart64 worked too, and I was able to run F-Zero X alongside its 64DD expansion disk. And my Bluetooth mouse worked through the BlueRetro adapter when I loaded up the Mario Paint 64DD title. Nothing surprising there.

On the Analogue 3D I tried the EverDrive first. The system simply didn’t see it, even after reseating it a few times. This older V2 Everdrive64 hardware appears to be a dead end for now. Newer EverDrives have already received a firmware update that adds compatibility, although those updates have to be applied using an original N64. But in my case the older Everdrive cart will likely not work at all.

The SummerCart, on the other hand, worked perfectly. The menu appeared, games booted, and saves from Wave Race 64 wrote correctly to the SD card. From there I tested the 64DD functionality, loading the F-Zero X expansion image the same way I did on real hardware. It launched, loaded its special tracks, and ran without issue. Given that this setup pushes accuracy and timing quirks pretty far, seeing it work at all was encouraging. The homebrew game loaded without issue and the BlueRetro mouse features worked just fine too.

There are a few quirks worth noting. The Analogue 3D treats the Summer Cart as a single “game,” which means display settings don’t persist per title the way they do when you insert individual cartridges. The Analogue 3D has a number of per-game settings that can be adjusted including scanlines, video processing and overclocking. But because it sees the SummerCart as a single title, you’ll need to adjust those settings each time you load a game.

Based on what we’ve seen with other Analogue products, it’s likely that an unofficial “jailbreak” firmware will eventually allow SD-card game loading directly through the console’s SD card slot. That has happened with nearly every device they’ve released. If that occurs here, it may open up broader compatibility and more options for people who don’t have a full library of cartridges.

Now that I’ve had some hands-on time with the system, I plan to hang onto it while waiting to see how the firmware evolves. I also might take a fresh look at the rest of the Analogue hardware I’ve collected over the years—each one has effectively become a short-run collector’s item.

OhSnap Mcon Review

My review the new Ohsnap Mcon game controller is another one that YouTube has chosen not to put in front of you. But as a subscriber to this email list you now know about it! :).

You can find the Mcon at OhSnap at this compensated affiliate link. It will automatically apply a discount.

It’s built around a MagSafe-style magnetic mount, so the phone snaps onto a metal plate on the controller and it then snaps out to reveal a compact game controller. The first thing that stood out when I tried it was the release mechanism on the back. Pressing the button sends the spring-loaded section shooting out with more force than I expected. It doubles as a protective shell when closed, which makes it easier to toss into a bag without worrying about damaging the sticks or buttons.

The layout is familiar but it’s scaled down for portability. The analog sticks sit recessed into the body and use Gamesir magnetic sensors that are similar to hall effect designs. They controlled better than I expected, with firm tension and smooth travel, though there’s a gap that opens during full movement where dust could get in. The triggers also use hall effect sensors, and the shoulder buttons feel standard for a compact controller. The D-pad uses individual buttons rather than a rocker, which made errant diagonals more common in games that require precision. For more forgiving titles it wasn’t as noticeable, but it’s something I noticed right away.

One of the more flexible features is the removable top plate, which detaches with an eject button and turns it into a phone stand. With the plate off, the controller acts like a traditional gamepad.

The mounting plate allows for vertical phone mounting by sliding the magsafe mounting plate off. This is perfect for emulating retro “tate” games that had their original CRT monitors mounted sideways.

I tested the controller with several devices. An iPhone identified it as an Xbox controller and worked over Bluetooth and USB-C. Android phones, tablets, and a TV box paired without issue. It connected to a PC easily, though adjustments in muscle memory were needed for games I typically play with a larger controller. The triggers feel more like shallow shoulder buttons, and camera control required lighter movements than I’m used to. There is no rumble motor, so games that rely on haptics won’t provide feedback. The Switch and Switch 2 didn’t pair at all despite marketing language suggesting compatibility, so that may depend on a future firmware update.

Latency was tested by recording inputs at high frame rates, and USB-C delivered response times similar to other current wired high poll rate gaming controllers. Bluetooth on a gaming laptop didn’t add much latency. But devices with slower bluetooth controllers (usually found on phones and tablets) might introduce more latency.

The Mcon’s portability stands out more than anything. The folding design protects the hardware, and the extendable handles help offset the weight of the phone during play. The detachable top plate gives it some versatility if I need to switch from mobile to desktop use quickly. There are trade-offs in control size and precision, especially with the D-pad, and some small build quirks showed up on the early unit I received. But after using it across devices and different types of games, it fits into the category of controllers that aim to travel well while still feeling reasonably familiar.

Testing a controller always comes down to whether I can forget about the hardware and just play. This one didn’t disappear entirely, but after a little adjustment, it settled into something workable. And once I got used to that unexpectedly aggressive spring-loaded pop, I stopped flinching every time I opened it.

See more game controller reviews here!

Disclosure: Ohsnap sent the Mcon for review free of charge but no other compensation was received. They did not review or approve my content before uploading and all opinions are my own.

Easing USB-C Cable Confusion with Testing Devices!

USB-C has been with us for over a decade now, and we have ten years worth of confusion to show for it. Two cables might appear identical, yet one will push 40 gigabits per second and 240 watts while another barely manages USB 2.0 speeds and 15 watts. Often there’s no marking, no clue, and no real way to know what a cable can handle until it fails at an inconvenient moment.

That’s what pushed me to pick up two cable testers from Amazon, one inexpensive and one considerably more advanced to get to the bottom of what’s tangled up in my rats nest of USB-C cables.

Check it out in my latest video.

The simpler of the two, from a company called Treedix (compensated affiliate link) lights up its board with pin-by-pin results. It works, but it asks you to know USB-C well enough to interpret what each light means. The more expensive unit, called the CaberQu (compensated affiliate link), offers a cleaner readout with data rates, supported modes, power levels, and even cable health. It also identifies the manufacturer and can sync its results to a mobile app. That turned out to be surprisingly useful for labeling cables and keeping track of what each one can actually do.

Running different cables through both testers made the differences obvious. A cable that was labeled at 40 Gbps and 240 watts really did meet those specs. Another cable that looked nearly the same topped out at USB 2.0 speeds and only 15 watts. One of my mystery cables supported 100-watt charging but only USB 2.0 data. These testers don’t stress-test power delivery, but they do verify what the cable is built to handle.

The testers didn’t always agree on Thunderbolt 3 cables, though—the CaberQu consistently read them at 20 Gbps when they should be twice that. My Mac reports 40 Gbps when I use them, so I’m chalking that up to a firmware quirk.

USB-C isn’t the only thing these tools can handle. The Treedix tester accepts USB-A and USB-B connectors too, and it confirmed the performance markings on several older cables. I even fed photos of the indicator lights to an AI model, which interpreted the pinouts pretty accurately—useful for anyone who doesn’t want to memorize USB diagrams. CaberQu’s makers tell me that USB adapters can be used on their product for older cables.

USB cables aren’t required to go through a certification process the way Thunderbolt cables are. A Thunderbolt cable must be certified to carry the logo. USB cables do not, though USB-IF is beginning to roll out an optional certification process. That means plenty of cables on the market claim capabilities without a third party ever confirming them.

After working through my collection, I’m glad to see tools like these that can remove a lot of uncertainty around USB-C. But the fact that we need tools like this underscores just how consumer-unfriendly the USB standard has become.

HyperMecaTech Super Pocket Review – Evercade Compatible Handhelds

My latest Gadget Picks channel review is of a pair of retro-themed handhelds called the Super Pockets, which come from the same folks behind the Evercade ecosystem. Amazon has these in stock along with Evercade cartridges (compensated affiliate link).

You can see my review here.

The two units I looked at were the Neo Geo and Capcom editions, each loaded with a set number of arcade titles. The Neo Geo version includes 14 games and the Capcom one has 12, and both are designed to be self-contained devices that can also accept Evercade cartridges. The built-in games aren’t removable, and the spacer in the shell is just a bit of plastic, but physical Evercade carts (affiliate link) work the way they do on the other devices in the line.

Each model looks different and comes with different games, but the underlying internals are the same. They use a 2.8-inch IPS display with a 4:3 aspect ratio and a 320×240 resolution. It’s a small screen but sharp and responsive, and input lag didn’t stand out as an issue. They’re compact units overall, and I found the ergonomics a little tight. The main buttons and D-pad are fine, but the rear buttons required by some of the Capcom fighters can feel cramped.

Capcom Game Selection

Most of the fun comes from the quality of the included libraries. The Capcom device brings in well-known arcade staples along with a few titles that required some creative control mapping, like Forgotten Worlds, which originally used a spinner. The Neo Geo model includes Metal Slug X among other familiar names. Not every title you might expect is here, and that may matter if you’re looking for a specific favorite, but the mix covers several genres and feels thoughtfully selected.

Gameplay is handled through a menu system that lets you create and load save states. From there, switching between games is quick. Getting out to the main launcher gives you a clean grid of the available titles. As was the case with the original cabinets, some games like Metal Slug still exhibit the slight slowdown they were known for, which feels true to the era.

Neo Geo Game Selection

Battery life is modest at around four hours, though the devices can run off USB-C power or an external battery. There’s a 3.5mm headphone jack, and no wireless or online features to worry about. Firmware updates are possible, but at the moment only through Windows and only when tethered to a PC. Out of the box, there’s no account setup or onboarding—just switch it on and start playing.

I also tried the Evercade cartridges they sent along. Each comes in a plastic case with artwork and a small manual inside, and the carts slide into the back of the handheld similar to a Gameboy. To access cartridge games, you quit back to the main menu, open the Evercade section, and let the handheld read the cart. From there, the titles load and function the same as the built-in ones, complete with save states and quick access to control instructions. Elevator Action and Operation Wolf were on the two Taito cartridges I tested. Operation Wolf originally used a mounted Uzi-style light gun, so the D-pad-controlled reticle takes a little mental adjustment, but the gameplay is intact.

These handhelds aren’t open platforms and don’t have an established jailbreak, so you’re limited to the built-ins and whatever Evercade cartridges you add. For casual pick-up-and-play sessions or for someone who has a soft spot for specific Capcom or Neo Geo titles, they are similar to other licensed mini collection hardware devices.

The difference here is the ability to expand them a bit with physical carts, which seems to be a large part of Evercade’s appeal. Collectors get something tangible, and the devices themselves remain simple and offline.

Disclosure: The handhelds and cart were sent to the channel free of charge by the manufacturer. However they did not review or approve this content prior to uploading and not other compensation was received.

GMKTec M6 Ultra Mini PC Review

The GMKtec M6 Ultra (compensated affiliate link) is a compact mini PC powered by AMD’s Ryzen 5 7640HS processor. It’s a six-core, twelve-thread chip that’s not the newest but still holds up well for general desktop and home-server use.

You can see it in action in my latest Mini PC Review.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZMydifq8KU

Inside, the M6 Ultra is easy to open and upgrade. The RAM is installed in pairs—something that helps the processor reach its full potential—and it can be expanded up to 128 GB. Mine came with 32GB. There are two NVMe slots inside; one is used by the pre-installed SSD, but the other is open if you want to add storage or dual-boot a Linux installation.

The port selection is solid. There’s a front USB-C port that supports USB 4 at 40 Gbps, capable of driving an 8K display or connecting an external GPU. You get two USB-A 3 ports and one USB-A 2.0 port, HDMI and DisplayPort outputs (each supporting 4K at 60 Hz), and two 2.5 Gb Ethernet jacks. In my tests, both Ethernet ports delivered full multi-gigabit speeds, though the built-in Wi-Fi 6 radio lagged behind—fine for occasional use, but not ideal for heavy data transfers. The fan was quiet during normal use and modestly audible under load, and power draw ranged from about 13 watts idle to 90 watts at full load.

In daily use, the system felt quick and responsive. Browsing the web and streaming 4K video went smoothly with only minor dropped frames. A BrowserBench Speedometer score of 25.1 puts it near the high end for this class of device. Light 4K video editing in DaVinci Resolve was possible as long as I stuck to basic cuts and transitions.

Gaming performance landed where I expected. Cyberpunk 2077 ran at 1080p on low settings between 30 and 40 fps, while No Man’s Sky performed similarly. That makes the M6 Ultra fine for casual gaming or emulation of consoles up through the PS2 era. On 3DMark Time Spy, it scored 2,623 points—roughly in line with a GTX 1050 Ti—and passed the 3DMark stress test at 99.4 percent, indicating stable sustained performance.

The M6 Ultra ships with Windows 11 Pro but handled Ubuntu Linux without issue. All hardware was detected, and performance felt snappy, making it a strong option for anyone who wants a compact Linux workstation or home server.

Overall, the M6 Ultra fits nicely into the growing lineup of affordable mini PCs that balance price and power. It may not replace a gaming rig or a high-end workstation, but it’s capable, quiet, and flexible enough to take on just about anything you’d expect from a small desktop. I’m already thinking about where it might fit into my setup next.

The company sent the unit free of charge, but they didn’t review or approve anything before publication, and no other compensation was provided.

The Native Union Pop Phone Brings a 1970s Phone Receiver to Your Smartphone and Other Devices

The other day I saw my friend Larry Hyrb, AKA Xbox’s Major Nelson showing off his Native Union POP Phone and I knew I had to get one too. It’s a telephone handset that looks like the same one my family had hanging on the kitchen wall when I was a kid. While it might look like something out of a time capsule, it’s actually built for the modern era with a USB-C connector that lets it plug into today’s phones, tablets, and computers. You can find the phone on Amazon (compensated affiliate link).

Check it out on my Gadget Picks channel!

It definitely lacks that heavy, metal feel the old ones did — this one’s all plastic, lighter, and sealed up, so there’s no unscrewing the receiver to see what’s inside. The cable is coiled like the originals but permanently attached, and there’s a single button for hanging up calls. It’s not quite as satisfying as slamming a handset onto a cradle, but if you need the full experience, you can always tap the button and smack it on the desk for good measure — just gently.

To really put it to the test, I called up Larry on a video call which you can see in the video. On my end, the audio setup didn’t cooperate perfectly, but Larry’s side of the call gave a clear sense of what the phone sounds like — surprisingly better than expected, with decent noise isolation.

We both laughed about the muscle memory that came right back — the way you naturally cradle it between your ear and shoulder or reach for a coiled cord that could stretch halfway across the house. Larry mentioned using his Pop Phone in meetings just to throw people off. Older coworkers immediately recognize it, while younger ones have no idea what they’re looking at. It’s one of those small reminders of how quickly technology moves on from something that used to be a fixture in every home.

The Pop Phone is a novelty for sure. But it’s a gag gift that’s actually pretty functional and works with just about any device that has a USB-C port.

The Gen 2 ADTH Nextgen TV Receiver is Still a Mess..

I picked up the second-generation ADTH ATSC 3.0 NextGen TV tuner on Amazon the other day (compensated affiliate link) to see how it performs. If you’re not familiar with it, the device lets you receive both traditional ATSC 1.0 and new NextGen TV broadcasts, including those that use DRM encryption. It can record encrypted broadcasts to an SD card, though playback only works on the box itself. ADTH also claims that a “gateway” firmware update will allow more flexibility later.

See it in action in my latest review.

What caught my attention was the box’s promise of “unconnected DRM,” suggesting it wouldn’t need an internet connection to tune in live television. The first-generation model required one, which made no sense for free over-the-air TV. So I decided to test that claim directly—no Wi-Fi, no Ethernet, just power and an antenna.

Out of the box, the tuner booted up and I was able to bypass the WiFi setup. I manually set the time and region since there was no internet connection to do it automatically. That step alone might frustrate less technical users. The channel scan found about 56 stations, and I was able to tune both encrypted and unencrypted channels without connecting online. My local encrypted CBS and NBC affiliates came through fine, confirming that offline decryption now works.

Unfortunately, HDR output was dim on my non-HDR display. There’s no option to disable HDR in the settings—just “always” or “adaptive”—and color-space adjustments made no difference. That means the firmware still forces HDR on displays that can’t handle it.

Recording worked in a limited way. I could start a recording to the SD card and even switch channels on the same broadcast frequency, but the box only supports a single tuner. Once a recording finished, I couldn’t find where it went. The “library” section that should have contained my recordings was missing until I connected to the internet and performed several beta firmware updates. ADTH is advertising DVR functionality and offline use simultaneously, but in practice, the DVR only becomes usable after downloading updates and enabling a beta mode.

After a few updates, the library finally appeared and playback worked, including for encrypted channels. It did play back those encrypted recordings when I disconnected it from the Internet. However, the software remains buggy—the interface froze at one point, requiring a power-cycle. The tuner also runs an old version of Android 11 with a 2021 security patch, making it dangerously out of date.

So, while the device technically works without the internet for basic live TV—including DRM channels—most of its useful features require network access. The HDR bug, outdated software, and rough interface make it feel unfinished. It still costs $100, far more than the $20 tuners available for ATSC 1.0, largely because of the licensing fees and development costs tied to encrypted broadcasts.

This is one of the few options that can handle NextGen TV’s DRM, but it’s hard to imagine a casual viewer getting this up and running smoothly. I’ll keep testing it as updates roll out, but this second-generation box feels like another rough draft in the long transition to ATSC 3.0.

MINIX Elite ER936-AI Mini PC Review

My latest video review looks at the new Minix Elite ER936-AI Mini PC. It’s powered by AMD’s Ryzen AI 9 365 processor, part of the Strix line, which gives it ten cores and a surprisingly capable built-in GPU. My review unit came configured with 32 gigabytes of DDR5 memory running at 5600 MHz and a one-terabyte NVMe SSD. You can find it over at Amazon, or direct at Minix’s online store (compensated affiliate links).

I’ve reviewed a number of Minix devices before and have generally found them to be well built, and this one fits right in with that reputation. It’s designed to be easily serviceable, with a tool-less bottom panel that lifts off for access to the internals. Underneath, you’ll find an extra NVMe slot, the Wi-Fi card, and RAM slots.

The port selection is generous for a small system. There are two 40 gigabit USB 4.0 Type-C ports that can handle Thunderbolt and video output, plus multiple 10-gigabit-per-second USB-A ports, dual 2.5-gigabit Ethernet jacks, HDMI, DisplayPort, and a headphone/mic jack placed on the front. Power comes from a 120-watt adapter, and the system draws around 100 watts under heavy load but sips about 10 to 12 watts at idle. A small fan keeps things cool; it’s audible under stress but not particularly loud, and it does a good job of maintaining thermal consistency.

The system ships with Windows 11 Pro preinstalled and activated. General performance was solid across everyday tasks like web browsing and streaming, though I noticed a few dropped frames while playing 4K60 YouTube content. The machine scored 33 on Browserbench’s Speedometer test, putting it in line with other recent AMD and Intel processors. Its graphics capabilities stood out in particular. I tested DaVinci Resolve with 4K footage and saw smooth real-time playback of transitions and a noticeable speed advantage when rendering effects compared to other mini PCs I’ve tested.

I also experimented with local AI tools to see how it handled workloads beyond typical productivity. Using AMD’s GAIA and Lemonade applications, I ran a 20-billion-parameter open-source language model that utilized the GPU. It performed significantly faster than running similar models through Olama on the same hardware which only runs through the CPU. It’s not going to rival cloud-based AI tools, but the fact that it handled local LLM this well shows how far these compact systems have come. For anyone experimenting with automation tools like N8N or other LLM setups, this configuration offers a good entry point.

Gaming performance was better than expected. In Cyberpunk 2077 at 1080p low settings, frame rates hovered around 45 to 55 frames per second, dipping slightly in more complex scenes. No Man’s Sky performed even better, staying close to 60 FPS on the ground and climbing to around 80 in space. The GPU is the limiting factor, but there’s enough CPU headroom for an external GPU setup if you wanted more performance. On 3DMark’s Time Spy benchmark, the system scored 3,504, which puts it close to older desktop GPUs like the Nvidia GTX 1060 and 1650. The stress test showed stable cooling with a 99.3 percent consistency score.

Linux support was also solid. Ubuntu detected all of the system’s components, including Wi-Fi, Ethernet, and audio, without issue. With two NVMe slots, it’s easy to set up a dual-boot configuration for Windows and Linux. This flexibility makes it suitable for home server use or software testing environments where you want both operating systems available.

After spending some time with it, the Minix Elite ER936 feels like a well-balanced small form factor computer that can handle a mix of productivity, light gaming, and local AI tasks. The design is practical, it runs efficiently, and it delivers consistent performance under load.

OhSnap Grip 5 Review

I’m not someone who usually likes to stick things to the back of my phone, but about two years ago I came across the OhSnap Grip 4 (compensated affiliate link) and found myself not wanting to take it off. You can see my original review of it here.

If you visit my affiliate link here, you can get a discount with my code LON33650.

It was a simple little accessory that functioned like a PopSocket—you could pop it out for a better grip or use it as a stand—and when you didn’t need it, it folded down super flat. What made it stand out to me was that it added MagSafe-style functionality to Android phones through its magnetic ring. It wasn’t something I expected to keep using, but it became part of my daily routine.

Now the company has released an updated version, the OhSnap 5 Grip (compensated affiliate link). It largely looks the same but it no longer uses the strong but removable adhesive of the prior model. OhSnap says they very carefully designed a stronger magnet system that hangs on tighter.

I was curious to see how that would change things since I didn’t have any real complaints about the previous version. So that’s what we explore in my latest video review.

To use the new model on Android phones, the company includes a metal ring that gets stuck to the back of the phone. Once attached, the grip will snap neatly into place and retains the same features as before—the pop-out stand and the comfortable finger grip. But Android users will have to pry lose the adapter ring if they stop using the Snap 5 grip.

The design looks thin but feels sturdy, just like the last one, though it’s slightly thicker. When I tested how securely it attached to my caseless iPhone 17 Pro Max, it came off more easily than the adhesive model. A firm tug or some lateral pressure will very quickly snap it off. For someone like me who uses a phone without a case—my running joke is that AppleCare is my case—the old adhesive-backed version feels much more secure.

When I tried it on my iPad mini with a metal Magsafe adapter ring installed, the grip was much stronger—so much so that I couldn’t pull it off easily. That told me the performance really depends on the phone’s case and how close the case’s magnetic ring sits to the surface.

Like the earlier version, the Grip 5 is MagSafe compatible and allows for chargers and other MagSafe accessories to snap on top. While MagSafe devices snapped on as expected, the strength of the outer magnets is noticeable weaker than the Grip 4. For charging, the Grip 5 works best with MagSafe chargers but doesn’t pair well with standard Qi chargers that lack magnetic alignment.

After a few days of use, I’ve found that while the Grip 5 is not as good as its predecessor. The magnet is strong but not strong enough to serve as an effective substitute for the reusable adhesive, and its outer magnet does not latch onto MagSafe accessories as confidently as before.

I’ll therefore be sticking—literally and figuratively—with the old one.

Disclosure: I purchased a Grip 5 with my own funds, and the company separately sent me another one free of charge. No other compensation was received, and the company did not review or approve this content before it was uploaded. All opinions are my own.

Amazon Fire TV 4k Stick Select Review

Amazon’s latest Fire TV Stick 4K Select (compensated affiliate link) marks a shift in direction for the company’s streaming devices. This one runs on a completely new operating system called Vega OS, replacing the Android-based OS Fire TVs have used over the last decade. But at launch, it’s clear this is a minimally viable product, and early adopters will need to temper expectations.

Check it out in my latest video review.

As far as the product lineup goes, this device sits just above the 1080p stick and just below the full-featured Fire TV Stick 4K. For now, I’d say it’s worth paying a little extra for the latter if you want a smoother experience. The Select model still uses micro USB for power, has just one gigabyte of RAM, and supports Wi-Fi 5 instead of Wi-Fi 6. It also lacks support for Dolby Vision which is found on the other 4k sticks.

Once set up, the interface looks familiar if you’ve used a Fire TV before. Most of the big-name streaming apps are available, but not all of them are native to the device. Some, like the NFL Network, are cloud-hosted, meaning both the app and its content stream over the internet. It works, but performance can feel sluggish, even on a fast connection. Specialized apps for devices such as the Tablo or HDHomeRun aren’t available yet, and while Plex is present, it’s missing many of the features found on its Android-based counterparts.

App support overall feels limited. There are no games and no sideloading options. The experience is closer to a Roku, but with fewer apps to choose from. For basic streaming, though, Netflix, Disney+, and YouTube run well enough. The device supports basic HDR (but again not Dolby Vision), and Dolby Atmos audio works through compatible services.

Performance on YouTube was mostly solid with 4K HDR playback, though I had to manually force it into 4K60 mode. There were occasional frame drops, but nothing too disruptive.

One issue that stood out was the lack of proper 24p output for films and TV shows in all of the apps I tested. Even with the “match frame rate” option enabled, the device stayed locked at 60Hz, resulting in uneven motion that film buffs will notice.

Voice control works as expected, with Alexa handling searches and smart home commands reliably. The remote can also control basic TV and receiver functions, though support for other devices appears trimmed down compared to earlier models.

At this stage, the Fire TV Stick 4K Select and its new Vega OS feel like a work in progress. It handles core streaming tasks fine, but beyond that, the limitations add up. This isn’t the Fire TV experience power users have come to expect—it’s more locked down, less flexible, and missing key features found on cheaper models. Amazon’s long-term plan is clearly to transition its lineup to this new platform, but until app developers catch up, it’s going to feel like a step back.

For now, it works if all you need are the major streaming apps on an older TV. But as Amazon moves further away from Android, this early look suggests the future of Fire TV could be more controlled and less open than before.

See more devices like this one here!

Thermal Master P3 Smartphone Thermal Camera Review

The Thermal Master P3 is a thermal camera designed to plug directly into an iPhone or Android device through the phone’s USB-C port. While it’s a little on the pricey side it does offer some great features and has some useful macro features.

Check it out in my latest video review!

You can find one over at Amazon (compensated affiliate link). Once connected and the companion app is installed, the camera functions as a macro thermal imager—it’s clearly optimized for close-up inspections rather than broad outdoor scenes. It’s the kind of tool you’d use to check an electrical panel, a circuit board, or in my case, a Raspberry Pi, rather than searching for animals in the woods.

It can be attached facing either direction and even accommodates some thicker phone cases thanks to its extended connector, though not every case will fit comfortably. For older iPhones, there’s a lightning adapter included. When using the lightning adapter, the setup feels a bit unstable, so a short extension cable might be a better option.

There’s a focus ring built in, which helps bring small components into sharper view. The sensor itself is very small, with a native resolution of 256×192. The app offers an AI-enhanced mode that upscales to 512×384, but even then, fine detail is limited. The best results come when the camera is positioned close to the subject.

While testing, I filmed my Raspberry Pi booting up and watched the components warm in real time. I also pointed it at a stovetop to see how it handled extreme temperatures. The app includes built-in burn-in protection that reduces exposure to high heat sources, prompting me to back off a bit. Temperature ranges can be adjusted within the app, with one mode for lower temperatures (-4 °F to 302 °F) and another for higher ones (212 °F to 1,022 °F). You can’t combine the two ranges, but for most household or electronics projects, the preset bands are sufficient. A scale overlay can be toggled on to display minimum and maximum readings in real time.

I experimented with the camera around the house—tracking hot water lines, scanning my electrical panel, and exploring different color modes. The app provides several palette options such as white hot, black hot, and various false-color schemes. There’s also a split-view mode that overlays a standard camera image to help identify what you’re looking at when the thermal view alone doesn’t offer enough definition. Users can even draw shapes on-screen to isolate temperature readings from specific areas—useful for monitoring different components within the frame.

Although it costs less than dedicated professional thermal imagers, the device isn’t meant for scientific precision. The manual includes some reference values for emissivity correction, but calibration is limited, and readings shouldn’t be treated as exact. What it does well is provide quick visual confirmation of heat distribution. It’s compact, fits easily in a pocket, and draws power directly from the phone. For spotting hot spots on a breaker panel or verifying that a circuit board component isn’t overheating, it’s a handy, portable option that fills the gap between hobby gear and higher-end tools.

Disclosure: The camera was sent to the channel free of charge. No other compensation was received and no one reviewed or approved this content prior to uploading. All opinions are my own.

My Arcade Atari Gamestation Go Review

In my latest video review, I take a look at the My Arcade Atari GameStation Go (compensated affiliate link), a portable emulation console aimed squarely at those of us who grew up in the era of wood-paneled consoles and CRTs.

It’s a self-contained handheld that plays hundreds of mostly Atari classic games from the 80s and 90s and even lets you load more through an SD card. What caught my attention was the variety of control options—there’s a built-in paddle for games like Breakout, a trackball for Centipede and Missile Command, and a solid D-pad with shoulder buttons. It doesn’t have the high-end feel of a Steam Deck or Switch, but it manages to strike a decent balance between nostalgia and functionality.

Navigating the interface is straightforward. The menus are organized by system, with sections for Atari 2600, 5200, and arcade titles. I tried Breakout first, which uses the paddle controller, and I liked that the device’s “SmartGlow” lighting highlights which controls are active for each game. The paddle isn’t a free-spinning spinner, but it has enough resistance to make gameplay feel natural. The trackball, however, felt scratchy and inconsistent, and I found myself preferring the D-pad for precision control in Centipede. The D-pad itself is surprisingly good—firm, responsive, and better than my initial impression led me to believe.

The system includes about 200 licensed games, mostly from Atari’s catalog. Activision classics like Kaboom and Pitfall! are missing due to licensing, but loading them from an SD card is simple. Once I inserted a card, a hidden menu appeared, letting me boot ROMs from different systems, including the Sega Genesis, Super Nintendo, and even PlayStation. Performance varies—Sonic the Hedgehog lagged a bit, and Dreamcast games crawl. But PlayStation and Atari Lynx emulation worked better than expected. It’s essentially running an open-source emulator framework under the hood, so there’s potential for the community to expand its capabilities over time.

Battery life felt similar to a small tablet—around four to six hours, depending on what’s running. There’s HDMI output too, but connecting it reboots the system and reduces performance. The image quality looks fine at 1080p, but frame rates dip with some of the newer “Recharged” Atari titles installed on the console. Still, older Atari games like Bowling and Breakout play smoothly both on the built-in screen and an external display.

While this isn’t a machine for hardcore emulation fans, it’s an enjoyable, self-contained throwback for casual players and gift-givers who want a plug-and-play experience without tinkering. The stand-out features here are the paddle and trackball that allow for game controls that more closely match how these games were originally played.

The Raspberry Pi 500+ Disappoints

The Raspberry Pi 500 Plus is a new take on the age-old keyboard-computer concept that combines a Raspberry Pi 5 with a mechanical keyboard and built-in NVMe storage.

In my latest video review, we take a look at this retro inspired offering from the Raspberry Pi foundation.

It’s selling for about $180 to $185 at official Pi retailers, which is roughly $100 more than the earlier Pi 400. Out of the box, it feels like the most polished of the Pi-in-a-keyboard systems I’ve tried, with better specs and a more comfortable design overall.

Inside, it has 16GB of RAM and a 256GB NVMe SSD that ships with Raspbian OS preinstalled, so it boots right up without any tinkering. You can, of course, use the microSD slot to load other operating systems.

Still, some of the frustrations from the Pi 5 carry over. The two micro-HDMI ports feel unnecessarily small given the space available on the back, and the power situation is still tricky. It requires a 5-volt, 5-amp USB-C power supply, which isn’t as common as you’d think. Most USB-C chargers top out at 3 amps in their 5 volt mode, and using one of those will trigger low-power warnings when you plug in peripherals and possibly lead to performance issues under load. Even Apple’s chargers don’t work properly with it, so it’s worth getting the official supply. I picked up one of these low cost ones at Amazon (compensated affiliate link).

Ports include two USB 3.0, one USB 2.0, Gigabit Ethernet, and the familiar GPIO header under a rubber cover. AC Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are built in, and dual 4K60 HDMI output is supported (although it’s super sluggish in 4k). During testing, I was able to get a 1080p display running at 144Hz without issue which felt pretty nice. The overall setup feels like a complete Raspberry Pi experience—ready to experiment with projects right out of the box.

Performance, however, leaves something to be desired. Running the Chromium browser at 1080p worked fine for light tasks, but the system bogged down on heavier pages with animation or video. At 4K, it felt even slower.

On the Speedometer browser benchmark, the Pi 500 Plus scored 4.54—less than half the score of an Intel N150 mini PC that costs the same or less. On the bright side, power draw was remarkably low: about 4 to 5 watts at idle and around 10 watts under load. That efficiency might make it appealing for someone experimenting with a home lab or lightweight Docker containers, but it’s not suited for media serving or anything that needs significant processing power.

The keyboard uses low-profile blue Gateron switches, and the keys are replaceable. The bright backlighting is nicely implemented, with adjustable colors and effects. There’s even a novelty game—Flappy Bird—that runs directly on the keyboard’s LEDs. The typing feel is solid, and having a dedicated power button is a welcome touch.

Overall, while the design is fun and nostalgic, the price puts it in direct competition with faster and more capable mini PCs. The keyboard is genuinely nice, but it drives up the cost of what’s still a modest performer. For light server duties or educational projects, it might find a niche, but the same money could buy more performance elsewhere.

I still like the charm of a computer built into a keyboard, but I’m hoping the next generation of the flagship Pi computer will push things further and correct some of the annoyances of the current generation. The Pi 500 Plus is a reminder of how far we’ve come since the $35 Raspberry Pi revolution—and how much the landscape has changed since then.

See more of my Raspberry Pi videos here! And my other Mini PC reviews here.

Disclosure: I paid for the Pi with my own funds. This is not a sponsored post nor did anyone review or approve this content prior to uploading.

Lenovo Legion Go 2 Handheld and eGPU Compatibility Explored

I am working on a review of Lenovo’s Legion Go 2 (compensated affiliate link) and wanted to see how well it handled an external GPU before putting together a full review. The handheld includes two USB 4 ports that are Thunderbolt-compatible, so in theory, it should support external graphics. To test it, I used the GMKtec AD-GP1 — a compact eGPU enclosure that houses an AMD RX 7600MXT with 8GB of video memory. You can find the eGPU on Amazon here (compensated affiliate link). The AD-GP1 can power itself and the Legion Go 2 through a single cable, which makes for a cleaner setup.

See it in action in my latest video!

The connection process was simple enough. I plugged the GMKtec into the top port of the Legion Go 2 and immediately saw it begin charging. Windows took a few minutes to detect everything, and I had to install AMD’s drivers for the external GPU. Once that was done, it recognized the card properly as a secondary GPU. For best performance, I disabled the Legion Go 2’s internal display and used only the monitor connected to the eGPU as pushing video through the handheld’s screen can reduce performance due to bandwidth limits.

Hot swapping between the handheld and eGPU worked on the Windows desktop, though not while gaming. You can plug and unplug the GPU while idle, but if you try to do it mid-game, it’ll crash.

Running 3DMark’s Time Spy benchmark, I saw a significant performance boost: the internal GPU scored about 3,999, while the eGPU setup hit 9,493. Power draw during the test hovered around 215 watts, leaving a little room within the AD-GP1’s 240-watt power budget.

Next, I tested No Man’s Sky at 4K with enhanced settings. The game ran smoothly most of the time, hitting around 60 frames per second with some dips. When I disconnected the eGPU mid-game, it predictably crashed, confirming that switching GPUs on the fly isn’t practical for gaming sessions. Still, for someone who wants a boost at home, an extra $500 or so for a dockable GPU setup delivers real gains.

I also tried other eGPU options, like the GT Box enclosure with a desktop RTX 4060 attached, but those setups are much bulkier. The GMKtec is smaller, cleaner, and more desk-friendly, even though it lacks extra USB ports for accessories. My only real complaint about the Legion Go 2 design is that one of its USB ports sits on the bottom, which makes docking awkward when the stand is open. You’d need an angled connector or stand to use it comfortably.

Despite its quirks, it’s satisfying to see a handheld like this handle desktop-class graphics with a single-cable setup. It’s not the most economical path to performance, but for those short on space who want one computer for both travel and desk use, it’s a workable approach. I’ll be putting together a full review of the Legion Go 2 soon and plan to focus on areas that haven’t been explored much yet — so if there’s something specific you’d like to see tested, let me know in the comments.

Blackview MP100 Mini PC Review

My latest Mini PC review takes a look at the Blackview MP100, a budget mini PC that is powered by AMD’s Ryzen 7430U — a six-core, twelve-thread chip with RDNA2 graphics. It’s not the newest processor out there, but it’s still plenty capable for light workloads and even some gaming.

See it in action in my video review.

The biggest limitation out of the box is that it only comes with a single stick of RAM, which means you lose out on dual-channel performance. That’s an easy fix, though: adding another stick of RAM dramatically improves its graphical capabilities.

When I opened it up, I found it surprisingly upgrade-friendly. It includes a 2.5-inch SATA bay for an extra hard drive, a spare NVMe slot, and upgradable RAM — you can go all the way up to 64 GB. My review unit had 16 GB in a single channel and a 512 GB NVMe SSD. There’s also decent cooling inside, which helps keep performance consistent under load.

The ports are practical: two USB-C connectors on the front (one of them full-function with DisplayPort output), USB-A ports, Ethernet, HDMI, DisplayPort, and a headphone jack. You can drive a 4K display at 144 Hz through DisplayPort, which makes it an interesting option for streaming via GeForce Now or other cloud-gaming services. The case itself is plastic, and it has RGB lighting on the top that can be customized or turned off through Blackview’s included software. That software uses a USB-to-serial driver for control, which looked a bit odd at first but turned out to be harmless after some malware testing.

Day-to-day tasks like browsing, watching 4K video, and general productivity felt smooth even with single-channel memory. YouTube playback at 4K 60 fps ran fine, and benchmarks put it in line with other mid-range Ryzen mini PCs.

Where the second RAM stick really matters is gaming and creative workloads. In No Man’s Sky, performance jumped from around 20–25 fps to 35–40 fps after installing dual-channel memory. 3DMark Time Spy scores told a similar story: 956 with one stick, 1,373 with two. Even emulation saw tangible benefits, particularly for PlayStation 2 titles.

Thermals and acoustics are well-managed for a small system. The fan isn’t loud during heavy use, though it can spin up unexpectedly when idle. Power draw hovered around 10–11 watts at rest and roughly 46 watts at full load.

Linux support was excellent — everything from networking to Bluetooth worked without issue with Ubuntu, making it a solid choice for running containers or self-hosted apps.

What stood out most was how close this system comes to being great with just a minor configuration change. Splitting that single 16 GB stick into two eights would’ve unlocked the full GPU potential without raising costs much. As it stands, the MP100 feels like a solid, efficient little computer with real potential once you make that one upgrade. It also carries a three-year warranty, which isn’t common in this price range.

Disclosure: Blackview sent the Mini PC free of charge. No other compensation was received, they did not review or approve the video or this post before publication and all opinions are my own.

Plex Pro Week Webhooks Follow-up – Free and no-code options

During Plex Pro Week this year, I contributed a video talking about Plex’s Webhooks feature that allows for a relatively easy way to link your Plex install to automation tools like N8N, IFTTT and Zapier.

In that earlier piece, I showed how Plex can fire off data whenever something happens on your server—whether it’s a play, pause, rating, or media being added. That data can then be sent to automation tools like N8N, which I’ve used in the past. But running an N8N server can be complicated and the hosted version requires a subscription.

In my latest sponsored Plex video, I demo a free, no-code path that doesn’t require hosting anything yourself using Make.com.

You can check it out here!

Make.com offers a free tier with 1,000 “credits” per month. Each credit equals a task, so something like receiving a webhook and then adding a row to a spreadsheet would count as two. For casual use, the free plan can go a long way.

I set up a simple workflow that starts by having Plex send a webhook to Make, which in turns takes some of that data and posts it to a Google sheet as a means of creating a log of watched content. That event is triggered anytime a new piece of media is played based on the state of the “event” tag in the webhook.

I then set up a second branch for when playback stops. In that case, I had the system call ChatGPT to generate recommendations for what to watch next, and then send that recommendation via email. The input for ChatGPT came directly from the webhook data, which made the recommendation specific to what I had just finished watching. It worked smoothly, and it showed how easily AI can be folded into these workflows.

For those thinking about linking Plex to home automation, the free, non-complicated options are a bit more limited. Services like IFTTT require a paid tier for webhook support, while open-source projects like Home Assistant can handle webhooks for free but require a bit more setup and complexity. Home Assistant, in particular, could be a strong option for linking Plex events with things like lights or thermostats, though it isn’t as straightforward as make.com.

There’s also Plex’s new official API, which was announced during Pro Week. The documentation is out, and I expect third-party developers will soon release connectors for platforms like make.com and N8N. That should make integration even easier, reducing the need to rely solely on webhooks. My YouTube colleague Techno Tim has already been experimenting with it, using the API to drive a dashboard for monitoring Plex server performance.

What I tried here was aimed at giving a taste of what can be done quickly without coding. Setting up webhooks with Plex and pairing them with make.com is accessible and flexible, especially for logging and basic automations. From there, it’s easy to imagine extending the idea into more complex routines, whether that means generating watch lists, building dashboards, or nudging your smart home into action when the credits roll.